Return To The Blue
By Michael Karlo Lim
MY MERMAID could not breathe long above water, and I could not stay long in it. As we do when the turbid shallows of compromise turn turbulent at times, we both escape to wetter water. It has been almost a year since we were last in the blue – “into the open sea”… panglawod… Panglao… at Bluewater Resort.
Not much has changed, and our impressions from our first stay have all remained. Small, boutique resort feels with the sincerest of greetings and smiles. The now anticipated – and I’d say very welcome – welcome drink, Lemongrass Cooler, seemed even more effective in warding off the island’s seemingly hotter heat. The main collective of buildings retained the rustic, tropical charm and what were the beginnings a beautiful garden was now a lush growth of greens upon greens.
Our golf cart had us back at the same villa, Balicasag. I had missed that private courtyard and its pool, but the pull of air-conditioning and the cantilevered king bed in the massive suite was stronger. Promises of spending more time to explore the many different possibilities at the resort were immediately forgotten as we lost the earlier hours of the morning to sleep.
Not a piece of thatching seemed any different from the last time we saw Aplaya, the resort’s seaside dining pavilion. It was still the same warmth that came in the earnest service and the flavors of the food. Her Chicken Halang-halang was the same thick reduction of coconut milk with the light zing of chili and ginger. The freshly-shucked sweetness of Panglao Oysters in Kaffir Lime Granita was as fresh as it is in the memory of when I first discovered this gem in their menu. I remembered enjoying their Lechon Kawali as part of their Adobo Rice dish, but this time I asked for pure pork goodness in a standalone. Extra-crispy, crackling, golden rind sharply contrasting with tender and juicy meat paired so well with the house blend of cane vinegar that I almost forgot that we ordered to share.
We didn’t lose out to the bed this time but lunch extended into seconds and thirds by way of several Netflix food documentary series. Each room now had that popular media streaming service available as part of their amenities and have programming specific to particular guest audiences, too. Not wanting to step out into the heat, we made good with the time to catch up and binge on TV series that our daily lives would not have allowed us to follow religiously.
Saturday nights are still Filipino Fiesta-themed with buntings, a native spread, and a full cultural show. Among the all-time Filipino classics and local preparations, what was already my favorite Lechon Kawali was served by the chafing dish, and I wasted no space for anything else except for a little taste of this and that. The urge to join the troupe for the interactive demo of the traditional Tinikling was strong if only we weren’t weighed down by too much pork.
Most of our time outdoors was dedicated to seeking out new photo opportunities in the blossoming garden. Alternately biking through and walking along the meandering gravel paths took us to patches, clearings, and groves each IG-worthy and, at the same time, perfect to merely do absolutely nothing and just take in. We also made good use of the many other facilities we previously lost out on to sleep. This time, we enjoyed the beach. Of the options, we stuck to swimming and ventured into kayaking until I would very well have to change my last name to Tan.
We were treated to the resorts new Afternoon Tea feature with the option of having it in the garden or in the privacy of the villa. The staff put out a rather English tea service with inclusions of merienda staples for a glocal appeal. Low seating pushed the laid back, tropical colonial feels. The selection of teas was terrific, and we also found ourselves drying the decanter of refreshing iced lemongrass juice to finish.
Not much has changed at the resort, and whatever did came in marked improvements. Our return wasn’t a getaway. It felt more like it was a return home. “Into the open sea”… panglawod… Panglao. Panglao Bluewater Resort.
